Ndondomeko ya Jazz, yomwe imadziwika kuti "kubangula", inalembedwa m'ma 20s a zaka zapitazo ku America ndipo idakhala njira yatsopano ya mafashoni. Nkhondo Yoyamba Yadziko Lonse inapanga kusintha kwakukulu kwa chitukuko chake. Makhalidwe apamwamba a kalembedwe ka jazz anali kusintha kwa kutsindika, zofuna ndi zofunikira padziko lonse lapansi. Zisokonezo zoposa 20zi zinakumbukiridwa ngati chizindikiro cha kusiya zonse zomwezo komanso mwambo. Akaziwa adagawanika ndi corsets ndizovala zazikulu zophimba miyendo yawo, ndipo anakana kugwirizana ndi gawo lachikazi.
Chikhalidwe cha m'ma 1920 chinayambika makamaka ndi Nkhondo Yoyamba Yadziko lonse, ndipo anthu anayamba kuzindikira momwe analili ndichisoni komanso kukhumudwitsa moyo wawo, kotero kuti panali ludzu losatha la chikondi ndi ufulu. Zonsezi kumapeto kwa nkhondo zinawonetsedwa mu chifaniziro cha achinyamata, okhwima ndi omasuka omwe akufuna kuchotsa mu moyo uno zonse zomwe zingatheke.
Pofuna kukwaniritsa zolinga zawo, amayi amafunikira zovala zabwino zomwe sizinalepheretse kuyenda, chifukwa mu corsets simukuyendetsa galimoto, simukuuluka pa ndege, kuofesi kapena ku fakitale simungagwire ntchito mu corset. Ndipo njira yabwino yochokeramo izi ndi zinthu zomwe anthu adadulidwa. Akazi potsiriza anazindikira kuti kukhala munthu sikovuta, ndipo nthawi zina kumakhala kosangalatsa. Anali chilakolako cha amayi kuti amasulidwe ndikudziwitsanso kuti chitukuko cha mafashoni cha m'ma 1920 chinachitika.
Zovala mu jazz
M'masiku a kalembedwe ka jazz, malingaliro a chiwerengero chazimayi asintha kwambiri. Mafashoniwa anaphatikizapo: chiuno chochepa, chiuno ndi chiuno. Akazi okongola ankaganiziridwa, omwe amafanana ndi amphongo.
Sitikutha kunena kuti moyo wopambana wa nthawi imeneyo sunakhudze mafashoni. Mphepete mwa masiketi ndi madiresi nayenso anayamba kusintha, anakwera pamwamba ndi apamwamba mpaka iye anafika pamtunda wa mawondo. Kavalidwe kake ka jazz inali yosiyana ndi ma corsetry olemekezeka omwe analipo pansi pake, deep decollete komanso mosamalitsa silhouette. Mafashoniwa anali ndi masiketi osakanikirana, maluwa m'chiuno, mauta ogwedeza ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya nsalu. Zovala zosasangalatsa sizinali zopanda phindu, mitsempha ya thupi lakazi siinagogomezedwe, zovalazo zinapachikidwa mwansangala, ngongole, ngati hanger.
Ponena za kalembedwe ka jazz, sitingathe kutchula kuti Coco Chanel wokongola, yemwe panthawiyo ankamuonetsa "chovala chachida" chodziwika bwino - chinthu chimene amayi ankawota kwa zaka zambiri ndipo ankaopa amuna. Kavalidwe kakang'ono kanali kolunjika molunjika, chiuno chopanda nsalu komanso kumbuyo kumbuyo kumbuyo. Ilo linakhala chizindikiro chenicheni cha chikazi ndi kufanana.
Dziko linatembenuzidwa, amayiwo atavala zovala za amuna, ankamangiriza chiyanjano chawo, ankasuta ndudu ndipo anayamba kuyendetsa magalimoto. Aliyense ankafuna kukhala ngati amuna. Komabe, izi sizikutanthauza kuti nthawiyi inali yosavomerezeka komanso yotchuka. Mafilimu mumayendedwe a jazz amaonedwa kuti ndi nthawi ya kupambana ndi kukongola, m'masiku amenewo anthu ankagwiritsa ntchito ndalama zambiri pa zovala zabwino. Umboni wa izi ndizovala zapamwamba zamadzulo, kusonkhanitsidwa ku velvet, silika ndi satin. Zovala zapamwambazi zinali zokongoletsedwa mwaufulu ndi zokongola zamitundu ndi mikanda. Iwo anabweretsa kuwala ndi zosiyana ku zovala za "abambo" za amayi.
Zojambulajambula ndi zojambula mu jazz
Kuwomboledwa kwa amayi kumaganiziridwa pa zojambulajambula mu jazz. Zojambulajambula zazing'ono zinkaonedwa ngati zapamwamba, zomwe zinatsegula nkhope yachikazi yokongola - nyemba, tsamba, kugwedezeka ndi kutsuka tsitsi.
Kulimbikitsidwa pakupanga kachitidwe ka jazz kunapangidwa pamaso ndi pamilomo. Maso oyera, olemera wakuda, a buluu, a phokoso, komanso owala obiriwira, omwe anali ndi mdima wofiira wamdima, ndi ma cheekbones apamwamba, olembedwa ndi pinki pinki, onse anali osiyana ndi maonekedwe a jazz.
Dziko lapansi ndi lopenga kwambiri. Koma, mwachiwonekere, zinamupindulitsa yekha.
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
