Simunaganizepo zomwe zingakhale mu mafuta onunkhira anu! Kwa inu zidzakhala zodabwitsa kudziwa kuti poyamba zina mwa zopangira zonunkhira, musanayambe kukonzekera ndi kusakaniza ndi zosangalatsa zina, zimapangitsa fungo losasangalatsa.
Mwamuna wakhala akugwiritsa ntchito zonunkhira m'madera osiyanasiyana kwa zaka zambiri, mwachitsanzo, kuti azisangalatsa milungu, apange fungo lachipinda mu chipinda, ndipo m'zaka zamkati zapitazi adayambitsa mafuta onunkhira kuti asokoneze kununkhira kwa thupi losasamba.
Masiku ano mafuta onunkhira ndi mbali yofunikira kwambiri ya munthu wamakono. Mizimu imagwiritsidwa ntchito kubweretsa chithunzithunzi chake chinthu china, chinsinsi ndi chokha. Ambiri samadziwa zomwe zingagwiritsidwe ntchito popanga fungo lokoma.
Musk wa musk deer ndi civet
Ndi kangati mwazindikira kuti mumtima mwanu mumagwiritsa ntchito musk, ndipo mumadziwa, ngati fungo labwino, lopenga. Koma zingakhale zochititsa mantha kwa inu kuti musk ndi chinthu chokoma komanso chosasangalatsa chomwe chimapangidwa m'magulu a nyama za musk, makamaka m'mphepete mwa nyamakazi, kuti akope anthu omwe si amuna kapena akazi anzawo. Koma kale zoposa zaka 1000 zapitazo, opanga mafungo apeza kuti musk amatha kupangira zonunkhira za mafuta onunkhira ndi masewera pa thupi la munthu aliyense m'njira zosiyanasiyana.
Choncho, mafuta onunkhira ankagwiritsa ntchito musk wa nyama ya musk, koma m'zaka makumi asanu ndi ziwiri za m'ma 1900 analetsedwa, chifukwa kale, kusonkhanitsa musk kuchokera ku nyama kuchokera ku gland, iyenera kuphedwa. Amagwiritsidwanso ntchito ndi musk wa chiweto chomwe chimakhala ku Africa ndi India. Komabe, tsopano m'mayiko amasiku ano kuli minda yapadera yomwe nyama za musk zimakula ndipo musk wamtengo wapatali amatulutsidwa kudzera mwa anesthesia yachangu, pambuyo pake chirombo chimapitiriza kukhala ndi moyo.
2. The Belladonna
Chomerachi chimakhala ndi fungo lovomerezeka, koma zambiri za belladonna zimakopa chidwi chakuti nthawi zakale ndi azakazi ndi mfiti zinkapangira chikondi kapena zizolowezi zoterozo.
3. Ndever jet
Ndege ya beever ndiyo kutsekemera kwa magalasi oyambirira omwe ali pafupi ndi anus ku beavers. Chinyama chimagwiritsa ntchito chinsinsi ichi kuti chizindikire gawolo. Kwa odzola, mankhwalawa ali ofanana ndi musk molingana ndi mfundo yogwirira ntchito ndipo amagwiritsidwa ntchito kupanga opangira mafuta onunkhira.
4. Dimethylsulfide
Chida ichi chokha chimakhala ndi fungo losakaniza la sulfure ndi anyezi, kukumbukira kukoma kwa zipatso za durian, kapena kununkhira ngati kakombo ka kavalo wakufa. Koma mndandanda womwewo umapezeka mu geraniums ndi maluwa, kotero dimethyl sulphide imagwiritsidwa ntchito kupititsa patsogolo fungo labwino la maluwa mu mafuta a geranium kapena kukhudza kununkhiza kwa nyanja mu perfumery.
5. Msuzi
Malinga ndi ena opanga mafuta onunkhira, nkhanza zonunkhira akhoza kuwonjezera phokoso la fungo la nkhalango kwa mizimu ndipo amatha kupereka lingaliro lamtendere ndi bata.
6. Mafuta a Costusa
Kununkhira kwa mtengo wofanana kumakhala ngati kwa ubweya wonyezimira wa galu, ndipo ndi koopsa kwambiri. Osati kale kwambiri chomera ichi chinali choletsedwa kugwiritsidwa ntchito mu perfumery, chifukwa ndi amphamvu. Zisanayambe kuletsedwa, kuchokera ku zouma za zomera, mafuta ankagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga mafuta onunkhira kwa amuna.
Kuphatikizana ndi zonunkhira zina za nyama, mafuta a cassis amachititsa mizimu kukhudza mavwende osapsa. Masiku ano mafuta onunkhira amagwiritsira ntchito kupanga mafutawa m'malo mwawo, koma mpaka pano palibe amene watha kufanana ndi kuyandikira mofanana ndi fungo lachilengedwe la mafuta a costus.
7. Phulusa
Ofufuta zonunkhira ena amagwiritsa ntchito phulusa kupanga mafuta onunkhira a munthu kuti apereke chisangalalo cha nkhanza ndi kukhwima kwa amuna ena. Nthawi zina chigawo ichi chimapezeka m'mafuta onunkhira a amayi.
8. Phenols
Phenols amagwira ntchito ya mkango popanga zokometsera zosiyanasiyana. Mitengo yambiri imabereka mwachibadwa kuti iwateteze ku tizilombo. Koma nthawi zambiri amagwiritsira ntchito phenols, otchedwa kreozolami, omwe amapezeka kuchokera ku chipangizo cha malasha. Zambiri za phenols zimakhala ngati fungo la munthu kapena mkaka wa kavalo. Koma amachitanso mbali yofunikira pobwezera zokoma za mitundu yambiri kuphatikizapo zonunkhira zina.
9. Aldehydes
Izi ndizomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito pa perfumery kwa zaka zoposa 100, koma adapeza kutchuka kwapadera pambuyo pa kuwonetsa Chanel No. 5 ndi Ernest Bo. Zinthu izi zimapereka mphepo kwa mizimu, kasupe weniweni wa kumverera.
10. Ambergris
Ichi ndi chinthu chosavomerezeka kwambiri ndi fungo lonunkhira, lomwe limabisika mu umuna wa umuna mwa ubongo wamkati. Choncho, kuti mukhale woyenera mafuta onunkhira, amber ayenera kumwa madzi amchere a m'nyanja kwa zaka zingapo, popeza mankhwala atsopano otengedwa kuchokera ku nsomba sizolondola chifukwa cha fungo lamanyazi. Pambuyo pachithunzichi, ambergris amapeza zonunkhira zamaluwa ndi kutaya fungo lake losasangalatsa.
Thupi ili limagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chokonza cha kukana kwa mizimu. Ndipotu, ngakhale mlingo wake wochepa kwambiri ukhoza kusungununkhira mafuta onunkhira pa khungu la munthu kwa masiku angapo. Poyamba, izi zowonjezera zinali mbali ya zokoma zonse, lero zimangowonjezedwa kwa opangira mafuta okongola chifukwa cha mtengo wake wapamwamba.
11. Indole
Chinthu champhamvu chimenechi, chomwe chili ndi fungo lamtengo wapatali kwambiri, chimapezeka maluwa ambiri oyera, monga maluwa kapena jasmine. Ikani izo kuti mupange ndi kukonzanso zokongola zamaluwa. Mwachitsanzo, kupanga billet ndi fungo la jasmine silidzamununkhiza kwenikweni jasmine, mpaka ilo lilowerera mu chinthu chonyansa ichi.
12. Mercaptans
Awa ndiwo mankhwala omwe ali ndi fungo lonunkhira chabe ndi mchere wotchedwa sulphurous mthunzi wofanana ndi fungo loipa la kabichi. Amakhalanso ndi mpweya wa m'mimba mwa munthu. Komabe, mukamayendetsa bwino, mercaptans amapatsa zonunkhira fruity kapena kukoma kwa khofi.
13. Zosintha
Mankhwalawa amakhalanso ndi fungo lopweteka kwambiri, ngakhale atasunthika kwambiri. Mwachirengedwe, zimapezeka mu phula ndi malaya, komanso pang'onopang'ono mu mitundu ina, mwachitsanzo, lalanje kapena jasmine. Choncho, ndi kuyanjana kwabwino kwa zonunkhira ndi mlingo wochepa, scatol amatha kusintha fungo la mafuta onunkhira, ndikuwapatsa chipatso chamaluwa.
14. Umuna ndi magazi
Zopatsa phokoso ndi zowonongeka kwambiri za zonunkhira zinawopsya kugwiritsa ntchito mafuta onunkhira chizindikiro Etat Libre d'Orange. Kotero, mndandanda wa mizimu yodabwitsa kwambiri (Secrétions Magnifiques) imaphatikizapo mfundo za umuna ndi magazi. Monga momwe Mlengi Etienne de Swardt mwiniwake amachitira, adasankha kugwiritsa ntchito zokopa zakuthupi kuti abwezeretsenso zokonda ndi zokoma za zokondweretsa zakuthupi.